In the summer, my eyes tend to be bigger than my stomach and I often buy more fruit than I can eat. When my berries start to turn from pristine into a bit bruised and very “yesterday” looking, instead of wasting the last bits I mix them all together and turn them into a jar of jam. Just like Pickled Red Onions, making a single jar of jam means you don’t have to worry about sanitizing jars or anything like that. It simply means, small victory, that your summer fruit will last a little while longer (and, another plus, you control how much sugar is in your jam, which is often way more than you would think in store-bought jars). This also makes a wonderful ice-cream topper and a filling for shortcakes—and a great gift.


MAKES 1 1 /4 CUPS [375 G]
3 cups [360 g] mixed raspberries and blackberries (just past their peak is okay)

1 Tbsp fresh lemon juice 

1 /2 cup [100 g] sugar 

Pinch of kosher salt 

In a large saucepan, combine the berries, lemon juice, sugar, and salt and crush everything together with your hands or a potato masher. Set the saucepan over medium-high heat and bring the mixture to a boil, then turn the heat to medium-low so that the mixture is simmering rapidly but isn’t quite at a full boil.

Cook, stirring now and then, until the jam is thickened and a bit reduced, about 20 minutes. Use a spoon to remove any foam that rises to the top during cooking.

Transfer the jam to a clean jar and let it cool to room temperature (this will take 1 to 2 hours), then seal tightly with the lid. Store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

SPIN-OFFS

TRY JUST RASPBERRIES OR JUST BLACKBERRIES, or just blueberries or strawberries. Or a combination of any of these or other berries you can get your hands on.

FOR PEACH OR NECTARINE JAM—peel and pit the fruit (score the fruits with a paring knife, drop them into boiling water until the skin starts to break, and then plunge them into ice water to cool; drain and peel) and proceed as directed.

TRY SCENTING ANY SUMMER FRUIT JAM WITH SPICES (simply add whole or ground spice to the mix) or use a different acid instead of lemon juice. For example, peaches go beautifully with spicy red pepper flakes or aromatic coriander seeds, and strawberries go well with balsamic vinegar. 

TRY SCENTING ANY SUMMER FRUIT JAM WITH SPICES (simply add whole or ground spice to the mix) or use a different acid instead of lemon juice. For example, peaches go beautifully with spicy red pepper flakes or aromatic coriander seeds, and strawberries go well with balsamic vinegar. 

USE LIGHT OR DARK BROWN SUGAR instead of granulated sugar to give the jam a slight caramel undertone. 

FOR RHUBARB JAM, up the sugar to 1 cup [200 g] and add a peeled and grated apple (which has enough natural pectin, which rhubarb lacks, to thicken the jam).

 FOR CHERRY TOMATO JAM, substitute cherry tomatoes for the berries. This is so unexpectedly good. Try it on toast that’s been spread with goat cheese.